
Growing Lavender
Lavender is a bit of a paradoxical oddity when it comes to cultivation and care. It requires minimal care once established, but it is rather finicky about the conditions in which it is grown. In other words, its ideal growing environment is narrow and specific, but if provided that environment, the lavender will require very little maintenance or manipulation by the grower. With the right conditions and attention, lavender can thrive for years, providing fragrant blooms and attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies.
To see the varieties available at Chicory Hill Farms, click here

Site Selection
Lavender needs a sunny location with six to eight hours of direct sun each day and well-draining soil. It prefers loose rocky, gravelly, or sandy soils that are slightly alkaline, but it can grow well in loams and even clay soils as long as there is sufficient drainage.
Drainage is key. Lavender hates wet roots and is extremely susceptible to root rot. While some sources recommend amending clay soils with sand or gravel, avoid sand as it will tend to form a concretion-like mixture that worsens drainage rather than improves it.
If you do have high clay content in your soil, do not despair. Amend with quality compost to increase drainage. Consider also mounding the planting bed. Another option, though more costly, is to plant directly in rock. Limestone is ideal for this as it not only provides better drainage, it helps to keep the pH high. The goal is to keep the roots out of water-logged soil.

Planting
Lavender plants can grow very large, therefore spacing between plants is important for the health of the plant. Most varieties will grow 18-24" wide and will require about 6-12" spacing between fully-grown plants to ensure proper air circulation. So plan on 24-36" spacing when planning your layout to allow for each plant to grow. When planting to create a lavender hedge, care should be taken to maintain each plant's space next to its neighbor to balance the aesthetics against the potential damage that can result from crowding. The above-ground part of the plant doesn't like wet any more than the roots. Let them breathe.
Plant after all danger of frost is past. As perennials, they can withstand winters, but young plants will do better without having to contend with cold stressors while it is becoming established.
They should be watered frequently in the first year, especially during hot, dry weather, because even though they are drought-tolerant and dislike wet conditions, they are prone to desiccation the first year. Close monitoring is required to make sure that they do not dry out too much.
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you choose to fertilize, avoid high-nitrogen options. Once in the first year is enough.

Care and Maintenance
Once established, lavender practically takes care of itself. It is very low-maintenance, requiring little to no fertilizing or heavy watering schedule.
Ideally, lavender should be watered to saturation and then allowed to dry out before watering again. Depending on the area of the country you are in, you may find that Mother Nature doesn't always cooperate with this protocol. As long as drainage is adequate, lavender will survive all but the worst inundations, and its drought-tolerant tendencies will bring it through the long, dry spells of Midwestern summers.
Fertilizing is usually not necessary, or recommended. Lavender simply isn't a heavy feeder of nutrients. However, if you feel your lavender really could benefit from a boost, go ahead. Just don't overdo it. Once each season is all it will likely need, if it needs it at all. Keep the nitrogen content low, 5% or less. Nitrogen will encourage leaf growth at the expense of flower development.
Lavender left unmanaged will become a large, woody, spreading bush. To avoid this, annual pruning is a must. Pruning helps maintain the compact shape and promotes new growth, which is ultimately what gives lavender that full, robust look. Regular pruning also prevents the plant from becoming woody.
Pruning should be done once a year. Most pruning is done in late summer/early fall, after flowering is complete. You should aim to trim about a third of the plant. If necessary, spring pruning is okay, though not the ideal time.
